Top

INTRODUCING A NEW CAT to your current cat(s)

February 17, 2016

  No matter the age of the cats or how much you think/want your cats to get along, you can’t force them to like each other. Putting them face to face or putting them in a room to let them “work it out” is not how you properly introduce cats, that’s how you ruin a relationship, and in some cases the cats may never fully get over that bad experience. Doing it the right way however will greatly increase the likely hood of a positive relationship, but be prepared as it can take several days to several weeks (maybe longer) for cats to adjust to each other.

How long depends on several things… how patient you are, whether you’re introducing a kitten to an older cat or an older cat to an older cat, if the cats have any history of being around/playing with other cats, or how their first few encounter are with the new cat (and a few other reasons.)
Follow the advice as close as possible, listen to your cats, they’ll let you know when you can move to the next steps. If you get impatient and they have a bad 1st, 2nd, 3rd experience, this could leave a lasting impression and could effect their relationship from then on, it’s better to stop the session and try again another time/day, than it is to get impatient with this process.

Think of every behavioural issue that you want to stop or manage being exactly like a person that has a phobia they want to cure. Let’s say it’s a fear of spiders, well, on day one, you wouldn’t place a bunch of spiders on the person to make their phobia go away. The first few sessions might be just talking about spiders in a positive way, once you’re comfortable with that, maybe looking at picture of a spider, then when you’re comfortable with that, maybe a spider in an aquarium at a far distance, and so on step by step. There could be weeks or months of this process to help desensitise you from your fear, and even if you do everything right, it usually doesn’t go from 100% disliking spiders to 100% liking them. after following all the steps there may just be a 50% improvement to your phobia.

We’re going to use a systematic desensitisation approach while at the same time do our best to create a positive association whenever the cats smell each other, look at each other, and as they get closer and closer to each other.

A crate/pet carrier is your friend, make sure you teach your cats (at least one of them) to love being in their crate/pet carrier.

Keep them separated for the first 2 to 7+ days, letting them explore the house separately which will get them used to each others smells.
Next, when allowed, and for short amounts of time throughout the day. carry one cat at a time around the home, like one would a new baby, sitting occasionally (far from the other cat at first),  just do things you might do normally. All animals are wired to recognise and eventually except a new addition to the family/group/pack etc.  Practice a few times per day and everyday until you notice less negative (if any) reactions and a more “curious” demeanor starts to develop, the one not being carried may start to come over to investigate. Stop the exercise whenever hissing happens.
Note: If a cat doesn’t like being held, you can try to create a positive association with being held through practice sessions of picking up (holding) the cat and feed, or have the cat in your lap and feed. This technique can some time to sink in, but the more you only feed your cat in your lap, the more the cat will tolerate being picked-up/held (for short periods) (At least that’s what’s supposed to happen) your results will vary. Or use the pet carrier to carry your cat around.

The goal here is to see the cat who’s not being held behaving less afraid and becoming  more and more curious, coming closer to investigate (sometimes there’ll be a little hissing with each new level of progress)

IMPORTANT: At or around this same time, you can mix in the following things.

  1. Have your cats eat a meal on either side of a doorway or sliding glass door (or child gate)
  2. Have them interact/smell and or play with each other under a closed door or separated by a puppy/child gate/sliding glass door, etc..  use a toy in this case to create a positive association when each other is around. (Only advance when there is little to no sign of aggression.
  3. Using a toy, have them play with each other through a barely open door.
  4. Using no barrier, but with the cats comfortably separated, play with a cat using a feather toy (or other type) while the other cat watches from afar, This is a great way to keep them both focused on the toy and in a good mood which will help build their confidence being around each other. Note that during the play try not to cause them to jump at each other and risking them getting too close. if they both want the same toy, try using two toys. This is a great sign if they can play or eat while the other cat is nearby.
  5. Teach your cats (separately) other tricks, having them first learn what the “clicker” is, so you can move onto other behaviours like shake, stay, high five, how to walk on leash, etc. Watch all the tutorials on my YouTube channel. @catmantoo

AT this point, unless your cats are playing with each other and you have no aggression problems, I would strongly suggest doing this last very effective bonding exercise.

  1. Hold one cats in one hand and a spoon with a little super high value food  in the other hand – ‘gamey’ raw meat (or can) food is best.  Note: CATS MUST BE HUNGRY AND YOU MUST USE HIGH VALUE FOOD) – Walk up to the cat on the ground, try to feed them at a long arms length away. If your cat runs away, that’s okay, it happens. stop then try the same thing an hour or two later. (Make sure your cat doesn’t have access to food elsewhere). Practice 4 to 6 times per day. You may have to postpone this exercise and feed them using one of the other suggestions, then start up again the next day. Eventually the cat won’t run and will eat from the spoon, if the cat continues to eat while the other cat is in your arms (or in pet carrier) keep feeding. With each session crouch lower & lower to the ground until you can put the cat in your arms on your knee, allow your cats to take turns eating off the spoon (if they stop eating, they may be full or you’ve gotten too close. LAST STEP before using the clicker – Try placing the cat on the ground, (again, take turns feeding them both).

The goal is to get the 2 cats on the ground within reach of you. This will free up your hands so you can immediately  add clicker training, this will really help speed the process up and continue to create a positive association with each other. AGAIN DON’T TRY THIS UNLESS THEY ARE HUNGRY. if they are hissing or running away, you might be getting ahead of yourself. stop the session and try hours later or the next day.

USING THE CLICKER – Whenever your cats look at each other, get closer to each other, walk towards each other, are not hissing at each other while they are close, CLICK & FEED. If it seems that you have one friendly cat and one aggressive cat, focus mostly  on the aggressive cat making sure they get the clicks and treats.

END the session Once your cats start turning away from the food (getting full),  try again later. Anytime there is a negative confrontation stop the session and try again another time, you’ll be AMAZED at what gets carried over to the next session, that’s why you have to have patience. If you push this process and they fight, then your chances of them getting along becomes less realistic.

FYI – When Didga and Rascal, Didga and Boomer were at this point, there was never any hissing while I was clicking and feeding. I hope you’re getting the same results.

When you feel like they are ready to meet, pick the room that has cat tree’s or something they can climb on if they need to get away from the other cat. Be involved in their meeting, don’t just put them in the same room and stand back and watch, I don’t want you to get hurt but if one is a young kitten, I might get right in-between them and pat, tease play and or treat while they are close….

Let me reiterate, please don’t push them into a relationship, patience is the key. WITH THAT SAID, there are cats that no matter what you do, they will not 100% tolerate another cat(s). If you’re following my advice, step by step, over days, weeks or months but not seeing the change/progress I’m talking about,  then you may have one of those cats that just never will get a long. then it becomes a situation of just managing their behaviour, OR if the stress on both the cats is too much and it’s been months and months of trying, finding a home for one might be best for all involved.

If you read this post and/or found my advice helpful, please let me know in the comments below, that way I’ll be encouraged to give more advice. and maybe, if I get enough interest, I’ll make a video tutorial to REALLY show exactly how to do this cat introduction thing.

…. Happy training.

Robert, Didga and Boomer

Toilet Training a Cat

August 20, 2014

QuizBlog 4

(EDIT)  I’ve removed all the toilet training videos from YouTube. I’ve realised only a few situations would justify actually teaching a cat to do this. You can read below – but ATM there are no videos available for viewing.

 

I love cats! And yes, they can be taught things! On my YouTube channels I get thousands, even occasionally – tens of thousands of hits PER DAY for my cat videos. One of my early videos is of my cat ‘Quiz’  using and flushing the toilet! Pretty impressive huh?

I really appreciate people clicking the LIKE button, making COMMENTS and of course SUBSCRIBING. Many of the comments on my original video tell me how smart and cute Quiz and DIDGA are but some people want to know how I trained them to use and flush the toilet. So I decided to make some tutorials. Although I’ll talk briefly here about important stuff to know before starting the toilet training process, you’ll then want to download my APP at your APP STORE. There you will find video tutorials showing you the toilet training process. I also have some tutorials on my YouTube channel, visit CatManToo on YouTube.,

IMPORTANT: Before I talk about the advantages to toilet training, You need to know there are very specific requirements expected of you and your cat.

1. For indoor cats only: if your cat has access to outside (indoor/outdoor cat) they will just “hold it” until they are let outside, actually, if they can’t get outside they would rather go on the floor in your house than in the toilet.

2. You need to see the whole process through with no “breaks” in-between. the whole process can take up to 12 weeks to complete

3. Other factors like your cats breed, age or past experience plays a huge role on the success.  Note: Some breeds will learn much quicker than others.

MORE INFO: There will be set-backs no matter which “cat toilet training” system you follow. For you –  My way is less money but a little more work putting it all together. For the cat, I think my system is better from a learning standpoint and this can be HUGE as it helps your cat to adapt better to water (more about this in the tutorials)

Before you start: You have to make sure your cat doesn’t have any medical problems i.e. bladder infections. If you have just one-toilet in your home, you can share, but it will be an inconvenience. Worth repeating – If you have and indoor/outdoor cat, you will have a very difficult time teaching them to use a human toilet. When a cat has a choice to either dig deep in the sand/dirt or use a human toilet, most cats choose to dig. They will hold it inside, sometimes for days until you let them out. I taught my cats Quiz and Didga to use both places but it took lots of time teaching them. If you’re lucky enough to have a cat that uses the toilet inside and digs in the dirt outside, you have one very adaptable kitty. All age cats can learn but young kittens need to grow a little before being able to physically negotiate the toilet. To help speed things along for young kittens, securely place a  spare toilet seat on their litter box. You may have to make your own kitty litter box from a cardboard box so the seat can be positioned securely. Place the litter box against a wall, up against the toilet, or on the toilet with the lid closed, then use duct tape to attached the top lid part to wall or side of the toilet. You need to make it really stable as cats spook easily and if the seat moves, they may not like the change.

Cats have a different rate of learning and it can take up to 12 weeks to figure out this whole concept, (7 weeks at the very least) If you start the process you’ll want to see it through till your cat is trained.  If you’re successful though, just think how cool that would be.

That’s just a few things, please go to my YouTube channels to watch full video tutorials. TUTORIAL # 1

QUIZ FLUSHING

QUIZ FLUSHING

 

due to the lack of time answering questions from all of catmatoo’s social media sites, I’m only answering questions on the catmantoo APP. Search your APP STORE for catmantoo – Use the “your wall” page to submit your question. Hope to talk to you soon. Robert & Didga

 

THANKS FOR SUBSCRIBING

10 Doggy Workouts

August 16, 2014

jump4frisSome dogs have boundless amounts of energy, here are (more than) 10 ways to help tire them out.

1. Having your dog carry a dog backpack on your daily walks around the block. To add weight to them, use sand or water bottles. The packs can be found at pet shops or on the internet.

2. Obedience or trick training. Mental exercise is tiring also, owners don’t give this one the credit it deserves. It’s a great way to exercise your dog both physically and mentally.

3. Visits to the dog park, or a park with no dogs. Find an owner that has a dog with similar energy levels and set up play dates once or twice a week.

DOG PARK ETIQUETTE: Don’t bring aggressive dogs! (seek professional help), don’t bring your dog’s favourite toy, don’t feed other peoples’ dogs, clean up after your dog, use biodegradable bags, and watch out for fast running dogs. It’s a great place to practice the training your dog learned at home.

4. Doggy day care. Veterinarians usually have the phone number to the best ones.

5. Dog walkers, even a half  hour walk in the middle of the day can do wonders. Hopefully the dog walker will let them off leash or play fetch or tug of war and not just a boring walk around the block.

6.  To keep your dog busy while you’re away, toys like Buster Cubes, Kong’s (filled with goodies), large meaty (Raw) bones, and frozen ice toys are like puzzles for dogs and help stimulate them mentally for hours.

7.  Walk, run, bike, hike or just take your dog shopping with you. Stop off at one of these U.S. stores while doing your shopping: radio shack, Home depot or Lowes, all pet shops, coffee shops, some bowling alleys, outlet malls, flea markets and many others.  I even was able to take my dogs into a movie theater. Unfortunately there are limited places that allow dogs here in Australia, but they do have some good dog beaches. One thing that is starting to happen here, and I think other places is, you can register your dog as a companion dog. No longer do you need to have a disability to have your dog accompany you during your daily outings. Cool huh?

8.  Go to a beach or lake and let your dog swim. Play tug of war (read my blog for the rules: TUG OF WAR )

9. If your dog is ball crazy and you don’t have the throwing arm you used too, add a tennis racket or one of those throwing arm devices. Your dog will love it! Watch this funny video:

Tennis ball launcher <a href=\”http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=4PcL6-mjRNk\”>

10. Practicing agility, which is an obstacle course for dogs. Also fly ball, canine freestyle (dog dancing), and frisbee throwing. If you have a treadmill, you might as well teach them to exercise on it.

Some of these things may tire you out too! Have Fun!

Basic Dog Care

August 16, 2014

VetDogDogs can’t verbally tell you what’s wrong with them, so taking their temperature can tell you a lot about how they’re feeling. That’s the first thing you would do with a child if they were having symptoms, and it’s the first thing a vet does with your dog. A dog’s normal temperature fluctuates close to the 102.7F or 39C. It’s very simple to do, but be sure to use the proper type of thermometer (rectal).

Another good indication on how your dog is feeling is their eating habits. A dog can survive 4-5 days without eating, but we obviously wouldn’t wait that long to be concerned. It’s when they stop eating anything you try to give them that you should start to think something might be wrong. Just be aware, missing 1 or 2 meals can mean other things as well. Like just not needing as much food due to ageing or having less activity. A dog might also be holding out for the good stuff (or junky stuff). If they go to their bowl but turn away, yep, they’re waiting for the good stuff. I had a dog refuse its food for 3 days until the periodic training treats I was giving became insufficient and she started eating her meals again.

Energy level, alertness, breathing, vomiting (more than a few times) are also good indicators something might be wrong. Usually a dog is quick to get to a level of symptoms (sickness) then they will recover (on their own) from there, but if they get to that level and then continue to deteriorate, take your dog to the vet immediately.

I know there are many over the counter medications for humans that also work on our canine friends. Of course the doses are based on the weight of our dogs, so you must be very careful. Talk to your veterinarian about the use of human medication for your pet.

I’m not a vet, and I don’t claim to to have the experience and expertise of one,  but I have many years of experience in caring for dogs and I know I don’t need to rush my dog to the vet every time they sneeze. It’s always better to be on the side of caution, and it doesn’t hurt to learn more about your dog’s health.

Please subscribe to my blog (with just your email) and look for me on FACEBOOK for training/behavior tips. TNX

Nutrition Tips for your Dog

August 1, 2014

Dog’s don’t know how to cook, so in my opinion, a mostly RAW diet is best, giving your dog the important nutrition they require. Fresh chicken parts, meaty bones or mince meat, etc., add to that a high quality dry kibble or canned food to help stretch those dollars.

To find a great dog food, visit one of the smaller pet shops or speciality food shops. These shops usually carry a wide range of the healthier dog food like Raw, Natural, Holistic and Organic. The shop owners are full of information and are happy to share their knowledge with pet owners.

When buying dog food, keep in mind, a dog needs to eat a larger amount of poor quality food to maintain caloric and nutritional needs. Therefore buying cheaper, lower quality food can be something of a ‘false economy’, particularly when taking into consideration the potentially increased likelihood of health issues. Also, the better quality of food that goes in, the less that will come out.

There are some ingredients on a label you want to avoid. Corn, soy, bone-meal, any by-products, chemical preservatives and wheat.

A healthier dry kibble will have meat as it’s first ingredient.

This is what a good “dog food” label should look like. In the GUARANTEED ANALYSIS, look for the Protein content to be at least 30 percent, the Fat to be at least 18 percent, preservatives to be Vitamin E and/or C and look for Omega Fatty Acid to be present. Just be aware, big dog food companies can make the label look like this, but have ingredients that are not good for your pet.
I find the dogs here in Australia eat really good! Lots of RAW food available, even in grocery stores. All my clients have their dogs on at least a half RAW diet.
I like this link showing in detail how to rate your dog’s food, plus it’s already done the homework for you and rated other foods. http://www.elkcountryanimalshelter.org/GradeDOG%20FOOD.html
Capture(16)_CaptureCapture(16)_Capture_1

SIMON AUDITIONING FOR A DOG FOOD COMMERCIAL

Restrained or Unrestrained?

April 24, 2011

At present there is no specific laws that require a dog to be restrained while riding inside a vehicle, however if there is an accident and the dog is injured because it wasn’t restrained, you could be subjected to a fine under the Prevention of cruelty to Animals act. At least, that’s how it reads here in Australia.

There are rules about keeping a dog in the back of a truck, like here in Australia, if you transport an animal in the back of an open vehicle, that animal must be restrained. In the state of New South Wales a fine of $5,500.00 or 6-months imprisonment can be imposed on the driver if this rule is not followed. In Queensland the same rule is in effect and it carries a fine of $22,500.00 or 1-year imprisonment. It should be noted that working dogs such as those used to drive a herd are exempt from these rules.

My research didn’t turn up fines in other Countries. But I’m sure there are laws regarding restraining a dog in the back of a vehicle, if not, doing so should be common sense.

The prevention of cruelty to animals organizations all have a position on the matter, which includes protecting the animal from becoming injured, The RSPCA and I’m sure other organizations around the world highly recommends that you restrain your pet while travelling inside your vehicle.

I did read where several countries or jurisdictions are planning to introduce bills, which will make it an offence to carry animals in a moving car un-restrained. In the meantime, there are plenty of devices on the market that are easy to use and connect with your vehicle’s seatbelt system.

For now the decision is up to the pet owner.

Happy and safe travels

Fixing a Dog. Part 2

March 22, 2010

spay dog

AKA= De-sexing, Spaying (female), Neutering (male)

Fixing a dog doesn’t change their personality, it just gives them one less thing to worry about.  Their desire to engage in sex is not an emotional need like it is with humans, it’s strictly a hormonal driven phenomenon.  It’s a feeling they can’t control and if they never had it, how would they miss it? The reasons people have as to why their own dog should have a litter of puppies is purely a human perception.

There’s a reason companion and guide dogs are fixed and police dogs aren’t. The meaning of smells, other dogs and people are magnified in their mind and this will cause behavioral issues. Fixing them actually is doing them a favor because it helps them be calmer,  getting more attention from us and other dogs, listen and behave better and easier to train in obedience. Fixing can help with roaming problems,  marking problems, not to mention the countless dogs who are abandoned, sheltered or put to death every year.

There are health benefits too.   It’s proven that spaying and neutering helps with ovarian and testicular cancers, tumors and prostate enlargement problems, which can result in an early death.

Females: Should be spayed before their first heat (6-8 months). This will decreases their chance of getting cancer by 90%.

Males: Known aggressive breeds should be neutered well before 6-months and all other dogs should be neutered at 6 months.

If you’re not in the animal business it may be difficult to know and see what we in the business see.  Similar to when you take up a new hobby or start a new business, things are never as they appear from the outside. Trying to breed your dog isn’t that simple as I explained in Part 1. This is why you can learn from other animal professionals, that fixing a dog is the only humane and natural thing to do. If you’re truly a dog person you should be looking at it from their point of view. Be a responsible pet owner not a wanna-be-breeder, leave breeding to the professionals spay and neuter all your pets!

The following video is titled, “Why Dodger stadium is full of dogs” WHY DODGER STADIUM IS FULL OF DOGS

If you missed Part 1 > Fixing Part 1

Fixing a Dog. Part 1

February 4, 2010

spay dog AKA= De-sexing, Spaying (female), Neutering (male)

I admit most of this will be aimed at getting people to fix a male dog vs. not to fix.  Because if I wrote my blog on  “Not to Fix”  it would read something like this:  If you’re a professional breeder or professional dog handler and you’re breeding not only for LOOKS but for HEALTH and TEMPERAMENT reasons, then don’t fix.

That would be a very short and boring blog,  so I’m writing about the reason I think you should fix a dog.

Part 1

We have a tendency to humanize our dogs thoughts, and most of the time we’re wrong.  I hear people say un-realistic or selfish things like, “why don’t you get fixed and see how it feels” or “fixing changes their personality” or “I want my children to experience birth” or ” I want my dog to have puppies” or “It’s not natural to fix a dog”.

Lets talk about the last comment and not the first, since that’s the one I hear the most.  “It’s not natural”.  If that’s your case then is it natural for us to confine our dogs to our home or yard? is it natural that we keep them on a leash, and away from having free access to other dogs- especially females in heat?, is it natural to keep them from roaming around the neighborhood. No it is not!  It is however our responsibility to keep them safe and alive.  Keeping them under control is the only way they can live with us. So fixing them is the only thing that makes sense.  Unless of course you live on a farm and don’t mind your male dog roaming the neighborhood, sometimes for days. Possibly getting stolen by people or research facilities, picked up by animal control, getting hit by a car or shot because they were roaming on private property. Or it may not bother you that those roaming dogs may be the father of a few litters, ah how cute… hopefully the other dog owner (could be you) hasn’t been too inconvenienced by the unplanned pregnancy and has found the 7 puppies good homes and didn’t have to destroy them after birth or abandon them at some already overcrowded shelter.  Is it really worth the risk and suffering- for them to get dog laid a few times?

If your NOT going to let an intact males roam around looking for a mating partner, which is kind of like telling a extremely high libido driven 18- year old boy, they aren’t allowed out of the house, unless they are closely watched by you and if they see the most beautiful girl they have ever seen, they are not allowed to go say hi or, uh, you know… Unlike teenage boys, a dog can smell other dogs, especially dogs in season from hundreds of yards away, even when inside the house. Talk about frustration and distraction.  Unlike teenage boys, dogs can’t do anything about it except sit there sniffing those smells. Try to remember dogs are not human.

If you’re thinking about breeding your dog, it’s not that easy finding a suitable breeding partner, they aren’t just walking around outside your home.  And if you were lucky to find one, Un-spayed females can really only conceive 2-5 days out of each heat cycle.  And what about this strange dog? does it have any known hip problems or inherited medical conditions, and what about temperament? You don’t want to breed your dog with just any dog, do you? Good quality parents produce good quality puppies. Maybe that’s why 99% of the people who say they want to breed their dog, never do. And if you did breed your dog, you’re not that blinded to think your dogs off-spring couldn’t inherit some terrible health issue at a young age, or end up at a shelter or be one of the millions that are euthanized each year? it could happen.

Oh, and don’t even think about finding a real breeder to help, because in the “Breeding world” they want studs and bitches to have ribbons and titles. That way they get top dollar for their offspring. Breeding doesn’t pay all the bills, unless they’re getting top dollar.  Your dog may look perfect to you, but you’re not a professional breeder who knows what to look for. A real breeder will most definitely have a different opinion, that’s reality. Even if they had what it takes? Just be prepared for all the costs and your dog will need to be on the road for months… maybe even years before earning their titles. All that to get them laid?

End of Part 1.

Part 2 will be about the behavioral, health, myths and dog’s perspective

Be nice to all pets and leave breeding to professionals.

Estimated number of cats and dogs entering shelters each year: 6-8 million (The Humane Society of the United States estimate) 300 thousand dogs and cats in Australia

Please subscribe with just your email address to be notified when I post something new. “Like” me on Facebook. Malibu Dog Training

Canine Cough

October 14, 2009

VetDog

Canine Cough is the equivalent of influenza in humans and is very common among dogs. Tracheobronchitis (Canine cough) is a highly contagious, upper-respiratory disease which is spread by an air-borne virus  It’s also known as “kennel cough” because some dogs can contract the virus in a boarding kennel. Because of the highly contagious nature of this virus, dogs can contract it anywhere even when visiting a vet office. The incubation period of the disease is roughly 3-6 days. The main symptom is a hacking, gagging cough, (like your dog is choking), sometimes followed by a nasal discharge.

The symptoms can vary in severity and can last anywhere from a few days to several weeks. Although this coughing is very annoying, it does not usually develop into anything more serious. However, just as with humans and the common cold, it can lower the dog’s resistance to other diseases making them more susceptible to secondary infection, which is why vets will prescribe antibiotics and prescription strength cough suppressants. It’s best to avoid socializing with other dogs until the coughing has stopped. Best to keep your dog’s activity to a minimum to allow them to heal faster. Most canine cough case don’t require veterinarian care, however if a dog has either a temperature, wasn’t eating, coughing excessively, I wouldn’t hesitate to take them to the Vet.

Veterinarians recommend the canine cough (bordetella) vaccine to be administered every 6 months to 12 months, depending on the area you live or exposure to other dogs. This vaccine doesn’t protect against every strain of the virus and just like humans and a flu shot, it doesn’t guarantee they won’t get sick.  “Nosodes” are the Homeopathic alternative to the pharmacy strength vaccines. You can find plenty of information on the web about them.

Some people choose not to vaccinate their dog against the virus and just treat them with antibiotics if infected.  A dog catching this virus is similar to us catching a cold from a co-worker or a child catching a cold from a schoolmate. The reality is sometimes dogs catch things from other dogs, protected or not; it’s all part of being a dog owner.  Any dog is susceptible to this virus,  a dog who socializes more or who travel more, generally has a much stronger immune system and when exposed to the virus,  they either don’t get sick or show minimal symptoms and recover within a few days.  Although the Bordetella vaccine is probably the least toxic on a dogs body compared to the other required shots, I’m personally not crazy about giving my dog shots and I’ve never had a flu shot and I very rarely get sick.  A dog’s immune system, like ours- builds the antibodies for these viruses, and unless the dog has a lowered immune system or stays at home a lot,  they don’t need some of these shots.  Please read more on this important subject: SHORTNING A DOGS LIFE .

I’m not a vet and I’m not making any recommendations. It’s just a good idea to learn more about your dogs health.

Other blogs I recommend :  BASIC DOG CARE

Bloat in Dogs

October 2, 2009

All dog owners, especially large breed owners, should learn what they can about the causes, symptoms and preventions of “Bloat”. Bloating has been written about and blogged about for many years and for good reason, it’s the second most common cause of death among dogs. Instead of me explaining what bloating is, its better to hear it from the people who study it.

here are the links to learn more:

Purdue University Study

Mar Vista Veterinarians

Bloat: The life threatning K-9 emergency

iPHONE PET FIRST AID APPLICATION

July 16, 2009

PetFirstAidIntroducing the pet first aid mobile application, your first stop for critically important pet information.
Your four-legged family members rely on you for their care, so be prepared 24/7 for a medical emergency. From cuts and impalement, to choking and CPR, Pet First Aid is at your fingertips with detailed articles, video, and illustrations to help you care for your dog or cat. Record your pet’s vital medical information to ensure their veterinarian is never more than a touch away, and your pet will never miss another vaccination. Pet First Aid is loaded with detailed videos and step-by-step illustrations so you’ll know exactly what to do when caring for your pet. Videos include: restraint, muzzling, CPR, bandaging, and many more. All articles, videos, and illustrations are bundled with the application for offline or wilderness access. Featuring dozens of articles, including: bleeding, poisoning, drowning, recue breathing and CPR, muzzling, restraining, disaster preparedness, bites and stings, burns, and many more. In addition, Pet First Aid allows you to save vital medical information for all your pets. Easily record their vaccinations, identifications, veterinarian contact info, medications, allergies & conditions, and any other notes for reference when visiting the veterinarian.
Learn more at http://jive.me/
All content developed by PetTech of Vacaville, experts in Pet First Aid and Pet Emergency Preparedness training.
Software development provided by Jive Media, makers of the #1 best-selling first aid application in the Apple App Store

Treadmills for Dogs?

July 16, 2009

Some behaviorist are recommending to dog owners to exercise their dog on a treadmill, which in turn will help eliminate their behavioral issues. Its true dogs need exercise and if a dog is tired they are less likely to partake in inappropriate behavior, but the treadmill alone won’t cure a dog’s behavior issues.

Dogs are descendants from wolves. When wolves go hunting, the great advantage they have against their prey is endurance. They run their prey to exhaustion in order to catch them. Not all, but many dogs have what seems to be an endless amount of endurance. Placing a dog on a treadmill might tire them out a few times, but they will adapt as they would with other forms of exercise.

The treadmill also doesn’t offer the mental exercise that’s essential to a dog. Mental exercise  acquired by chasing their prey, or chasing and finding a ball, doing obedience or an agility obstacle course. Mental and physical exercises are in-direct ways for curing behavioral issues. You still need to apply Behavior modification techniques to directly modify a dog’s behavior. Read, Direct and In-Direct

Giving your dog an exercise outlet so they don’t take it out on your couch, or hiring a professional to obtain the knowledge needed to apply behavior modification solutions, will ultimately help cure or avoid behavioral issues from even starting. The treadmill ( DOG TREADMILL LINK) works great if there are no other exercise options available. If you already have one, you might as well train your dog how to use it, sounds like fun. Just don’t rely on it like some behaviorist would like you to think.

To find 10 other exercise options available, see my blog 10 Doggy Workouts

I found this funny video on YouTube http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=APl2nT3T3PU

SHORTENING A DOG’S LIFE PART 2

July 3, 2009

VetDogThere is no doubt dogs need our help and immunizations are important especially with puppies. Young puppies are somewhat protected by their mother’s milk. If the mother has the antibodies, they will be passed along to the puppy.

Immunizations are vaccines made up of either weakened or “killed” versions of the bacteria or virus that causes a particular disease. When these altered viruses and bacteria are injected or taken orally, the immune system mounts an attack that stimulates the body to produce antibodies. Any shot given is not a guarantee of immunity, but the stronger a immune system is the better chance to stay healthy.

There is a lot of credible research that says over vaccination can cause many serious conditions, ranging from kidney disease, immune system problems and cancer.

To combat the dangers of over immunizing, many of us are having titer test done instead of our dogs getting shots. A titer pronounced (tie-ter) are blood tests for your dog that will show if the dog is protected with  antibodies. These tests cost more than what a shot would be and can take weeks to get  results. The more people who believe over immunization can be harmful, the more vet’s will make these titer test available, costing less and with faster results. Also, you’ll find that more establishments that require seeing an immunization record will accept these titer verification tests.

If you missed part 1 just click on “more on health and fitness”  I’m sure I’ll be blogging about this subject again

SHORTENING A DOG’S LIFE

June 26, 2009

2bullgoodPart 1.   For many years I’ve  questioned the veterinarian immunization schedule for dogs because I believe immunizations can negatively affect a dog’s immune system. I’m not a veterinarian but I’ve learned a lot about the subject in my 28 years as a dog trainer. I have read many articles on the subject. There are also many dog owners who feel the same as I.  Vaccinating a dog is similar to vaccinating a child. Antibodies are produced and protect against a virus, so why aren’t children required to get small pox or polio shots annually? If a dog has enough antibodies for a particular virus, why do they need another shot? They really don’t.

In our human world, drugs over-prescribed by professionals can have a negative effect on our systems, sometimes resulting in death. This has happened to famous people like Keith Ledger, Marilyn Monroe and sadly now (possibly) Michael Jackson whom I’ve personally had a conversation with and believe what the media did to him was barbaric. His ex-wife Debbi Rowe was a friend and client. My condolences go out to his family.

Up until the year 2001, veterinarians were prescribing that dogs get immunized once a year with DHLP-P (Distemper, Leptospirosis, Hepatitis, Parvovirus and Parainfluenza). Sometimes a Coronavirus shot was added depending on location. U.C. Davis, a leading school of veterinary medicine recommended changing the annual requirement for shots to every 3 years. It took a few years before most veterinarians followed this new recommendation, why? Money!  Unfortunately there are still many veterinarians who recommend inoculations  once a year.

Part 2 click here: Shortning a life part 2

Bottom