Car Sickness

Never comfort or nurture a young puppy or a dog in a vehicle that appears to be nervous or sick, comforting only reinforces the nervousness or sick feeling the puppy may have. Using desensitization or counter-conditioning techniques (as prescribed below) can make the car an enjoyable experience. Ninety-nine per cent of dogs can get over carsickness quickly if you follow a few rules. The first one is to be patient! Usually it takes 3-6 days of rehabilitation, but it can take up to 3 weeks for a dog to fully overcome carsickness

For Puppies or dogs that can’t jump in the car, you’ll need to pick them up and place them inside. For dogs that can physically jump in and either don’t want to because of the bad experience, or they have the owners trained to help them up, those dogs should first learn how-to properly jump in and out of a vehicle. This will greatly help them with the rehabilitation process. This sounds like another blog and How-to video, which I can do, I just need to know there’s a need out there for it… use the comment form below to let me know.

Step one: With the engine turned off, have your dog jump in or place the puppy in the vehicle for a few seconds, then place them on the ground for a few seconds. Repeat this several times – extending the time they are in the vehicle but the time on the ground should increase to no more than 10 seconds (for all steps). Once they’re inside the vehicle for more than 10 seconds, use the *Redirection tease play method (only in vehicle). Practice this step for 1-3 minute sessions, 2-3 times a day, for 1-2 days. Puppies adapt quickly but it’s still a good thing to be patient.

*Click on this link> Redirection-tease-play to learn about the “Redirection Tease Play Method”, then watch the video on my YouTube channel before proceeding to Step 2.

Step 2: When the puppy is getting comfortable in the car, you’ll always know how fast you can proceed by how much they play with you and the toys, also by how interested they are in the treats you’re using. Then, start the vehicle’s engine and continue the “tease play” still putting them in and out of the car. Increase the time spent in the vehicle. Remember no reinforcement (praise) when they are on the ground and anytime you open a car door, they should not jump out until given the “Release” command.

Step 3: Again, when the puppy is getting comfortable in a vehicle that’s idling, drive the vehicle just a few meters, then stop and continuing the tease play method for 1 or 2 minutes. Let them on the ground before continuing. (It will help to have an assistant during this step)

Step 4: Go on short car rides, having the dog ride in different seats or crate and not on your lap. Take these short trips as often as possible. If you ever have problems you can always go back to the level or step the puppy wasn’t getting sick and practice at that level a few times before moving on.

Step 5: At some point you’re going to have to just go for it, and go on a longer drive, especially if they have not been getting sick on short trips. NOT a good idea for the first few trips to be on a curvy mountainous road. The straighter the road the better and If they do get sick, it’s usually just once and then they just get accustom to the driving.

Once your dog is over their carsickness, you now have the task of educating them the rules for riding in a vehicle.

If you have any comments, I’d love to hear from you. Please use the comment form below.

Tug Of War Game

Tug of war is one of those misinterpreted dog/human games that doesn’t get experienced by many dogs because of the aggressive perception of the game.  Even many animal professionals tell you not to do it.  This is very sad because it’s probably one of the best things to do with a dog.  We have the “pack leader” and “dominance” teachings to blame.  Under those “Pack” rules,  it’s you against your dog to see who wins the toy.  Under those rules,  you are in competition with your dog for everything and you must not allow them to “win” because they will think you’re weak, and assume the position of “Pack leader”.

These teachings couldn’t be farther from the truth.  Your dog is your teammate and not your competitor,  you are working together for a common goal.  When wild dogs tug on the same piece of meat from a killed prey, they are tugging to tear the meat apart so they both can swallow the smaller pieces,  and not a battle of who gets the food or biggest piece. The dog sees it as both of you against the toy and not against each other. This is why dogs play fight and play tug of war with each other, it’s practice, before the real things happens.  Talk about lost in translation; they must really be confused when they’re corrected (or deprived) from things, when they are really just trying to play, practice and work together.

However, every game has a set of rules that must be followed, not because of dominance- but because you don’t want a dog making the rules. During my lessons, I teach people how to teach their dog to not only like toys (if they don’t) but how to properly and safely play tug games, without the dog getting the wrong idea and developing control and behavioral problems because of it.

If you would like the rest of this story, which explains the benefits of the game, and how to properly teach and play one of the best dog -human games, use the comment form below and tell me a little about your dog i.e. breeds, age and any behavior problems they may have.

Where the tug game gets negative attention is if the dog has the toy and the owner tries to take it, and the dog growls or snaps. That behavior wasn’t or isn’t caused by tug games,  it’s caused by the predatory nature of dogs to guard precious resources aka: “Resource Guarding” or  ”Possession Aggression”.  These dogs value the item too much once they get it and they want to keep it for themselves.  Somewhere in the past, or when playing the tug game incorrectly, the owners encouraged or allowed this bad behavior to go on without modifying it.  Don’t worry, the problem can be fixed with the right knowledge, just call your local dog friendly trainer, or visit my “Programs Available” page to find out how I can help you.

Redirection Tease Play…

…is one of the techniques I use to help rehabilitate dogs with confidence problems or other noise, dog or people phobias.  This method allows me to directly interact with them in a language they understand, without them thinking I’m approving of how they’re feeling.  At the same time I’m desensitizing them from their fears.  In the dog world- there is no such thing as comforting, If a dog becomes afraid of something there is never a time when another dog would hold it in its arms, stroking them telling them everything will be alright. We often humanize their thoughts and comfort them if we “think” they’re feeling hurtful emotions, but our comforting is doing more harm than good.   Blog: Treat a dog like a dog.  If dogs have fear of thunder, fireworks, people or dogs, it’s usually because of their owners.  Yes initially they may have reacted to those things, but how the owners reacts to their reaction is the problem.

Rather than me explaining  just how the technique is done, let me show you.  First, I need to set up the clips.  The first dog you’ll see is Duncan, a 4-month old German Shepherd, he gets terribly car sick. The car doesn’t have to move for him to start drooling excessively.  These clips are not a “How to” cure your dog of car sickness or any problems you’ll see, it’s an example of how to use re-direction tease play when,  a) You see your dog react negatively to strange noises or situations, or  b) Using it as part of the rehabilitation process.

If you have a dog that gets car sick or has other phobias and you need help, you can contact me for a Skype lesson.

The second dog you’ll see is Chulo, a 6-month old white German Shepherd.  He’s socialized with other familiar dogs in semi-large groups, but not around strange dogs or at this particular dog park.  I noticed straight away he would snap at dogs if they came up behind him, especially the older more assertive (friendly) dogs.  This technique will help him be more tolerant.

The Third dog is Freda, she has a very sweet face but has a few aggressive problems, she’s a 4-month old Kelpi mix who goes ballistic, screaming, biting, scratching and urinating if you suddenly try to restrict her movement either by holding her collar or just holding her.  She will need a lot of re-direction tease play in many different scenarios.  Since I’m living in Freda’s house, playing “Extreme doggie make-over” (Behavior modification edition)  while the owners are away on holiday, I can focus a lot on using tease play to help cure her of – what I call  ”restrictive phobia”.

Since I’ve been working on this blog, filming and working on Freda’s restrictive phobia problem, we had a break through,  I’ve added a clip of Freda letting me grind her nails.

Note: You’ll notice how I never once say anything or pet (praise) the dogs I’m rehabilitating. Think “Dog whispering” .  ”Petting” is interpreted as praise or approval.

Link to video: Redirection Tease Play

EMOTIONAL HELLO’S AND GOODBYE’S

Emotional “Hello’s and Goodbye’s” are when you greet your dog or say goodbye to your dog in an excited way.

If you have a new puppy or dog that jumps on guests, doesn’t listen to you or has other behavioral issues, you may want to reconsider saying hello or goodbye to them because doing so can cause behavior problems.  Petting your dog when you come home should have nothing to do with dominance or pack leadership, no matter who tells you.

I consider this one of the biggest mistakes people make and the number one contributor to a dog’s behavioral issues.  I have a lot of experience on this topic and consider myself a true dog person, sacrificing my own needs if it will benefit the needs of my dog.

I’ve learned over the years that although dogs don’t worship us, they must think we are super beings.  We tower over them, we pet them unlike any dog is able too, we provide shelter, security, food, play and adventure, things that all dogs want and NEED to survive.

Because of the way dogs learn, attention equals reward (approval).  Given at the wrong times, it can have an influence on their behavior and EMOTIONAL state.  Because of the strong bond with humans and the fact they are highly social, playful creatures, they’re not accustom to being separated from one another, especially being separated from humans.

Here is what some people think emotional hellos and goodbyes are telling their dog:

1. Were just saying “Hi”- wouldn’t a dog think we were rude if we didn’t?

2. That we really miss them and it proves that we still love them.

3. They understand we’re feeling guilty for keeping them locked up in the home all day.

4. By petting them, a dog will forgive you for your lack of companionship.

5. My dog seems happy to see me (which is true), they must have missed me (this is very true) isn’t that sweet? Is this unconditional love or what? (That’s not true)

6. I‘ll be thinking about you and miss you while I‘m gone.

7. Not saying goodbye would be rude. I also want him to understand me when I say be a good boy, because he’s not always good.

Coming home and getting your dog all excited with a high voice and praise, or saying goodbye before you leave them for hours, translates the following:

1. That it’s ok to greet you and your guest in that excited way.

2. They’re being rewarded for worrying and anticipating your arrival/departure.

3. Its ok to be hyper and jumping, and they should be even more hyper and do more jumping the next time.

4. Its ok not to listen to you whenever you give them a command.

6. You’re teaching them to develop behavioral issues, like separation anxiety, chewing, barking, digging etc..

7.  All that crying, scratching, barking really was worth it, cause it got you back home.

8.  You’re saying, “good bye, be a good doggy“, they’re hearing nah-nah-nah I’m leaving you all alone, all by yourself and you are going to be miserable!

So, what do you do? and when can you say “Hi”? or keep them from being hyper and jumping on people? Well, I can’t give all my secrets away, there needs to be a reason people will hire me. In Australia I offer private and in-home programs. I also offer Skype lessons to help people all over the world.

Use the comment form below to contact me.  You can also subscribe, to be notified when I post other new training tips

Spray Correction Collars

Many years ago, I was contacted by a company to test a new correction collar that didn’t involve a shock but used citronella spray as a correction.  I was sent both a bark spray collar and a remote spray collar. I quickly realized these were much better than the shock collars that were being used at that time. People bought shock collars because they thought it was a “quick fix” solution to behavioral and obedience problems, and for many reasons they were more trouble than they were worth.  You can read more of my thoughts about shock collars  here>: SHOCK COLLARS

Back to my story. I tested the spray collars and thought they were great! The spray doesn’t just directly affect one of a dog’s senses (like the shock does) but four of them, which is why they are more effective than the shock collars.  When sprayed, they can see it (it’s a mist) the can feel it (under the chin) they can hear it (pssst!) and they can smell it (citronella).  The remote collar set-up worked great for stopping the more difficult behaviors, like digging, chewing, jumping on the other side of the door (to name a few).

There are 3 buttons on the hand-held remote, and when you press the first button, it emits a double beep sound on the collar. The second button emits a short duration of spray (1 second). The third button emits a longer duration of spray (2 seconds).

I thought this is great; you can vary your correction or re-direction by warning them first with the beep sound and because many dogs are sensitive to sound, the beep was the correction, so you didn’t need to spray. If the dog didn’t respond to the beep, the short and longer spray could be used.  Those dogs quickly learn the beep was a warning to the more startling spray correction, then after a few beep and spray experiences, the “beep” became the correction. The collars are only part of the behavior modification process, I also incorporated a re-direction reward after the beep or spray marker. I also made sure the dogs had plenty of time to be dogs and get exercised and understand at least five obedience commands, because a tired dog is less likely to display behavioral problems and a smart dog learns not only what to do, but what they’re not supposed to do.

After my evaluation input,  the company (Premier Pet Products) wrote in the instruction book to use the beep as a positive sound, letting the dog know that when they hear the beep it’s a good thing.  There was also no mention of the redirection follow through reward, which to me is the most important part.  When I read that in the instruction manual, I knew the testing from other trainers who gave input was not done properly nor did they read or take my input seriously.  Too bad, because many dogs get sprayed when there is no need, and what a waste of the proper use for the beep sound.  I haven’t read their instruction booklet in several years, I wonder if changes were made?

Today, I rarely use these collars but it’s nice to have them on hand when I run into the more difficult cases.  I can see however, where a few people can benefit from using them, as long as they understand the right way and take all the other steps needed.  If you ever purchase a remote spray collar, I don’t recommend using the beep as a reward marker as per instructions.  That’s what a “Clicker” or the word “Good” is for.

Direct and In-Direct

As an animal behaviorist, I understand that there are  direct and indirect “causes” of behavioral problems. I also understand that there are direct and indirect “cures” for behavioral problems. I’m here to teach you.

Direct and indirect causes of most behavioral issues:

1. Emotional hello’s and goodbye’s:  This one practice by the owner is a direct and indirect cause for many dog’s behavioral issues. I’ll be posting a blog soon on this important subject.

2. Having no obedience on your dog: Without you or your dog having the knowledge to execute basic commands or problem solving, you are much more likely to have a dog with behavioral issues.

3. Allowing a young dog to sleep in your bed: This can in-directly cause behavioral issues like excessive chewing, digging, barking, etc. For the first year or 2  puppies or young dogs should have their own sleeping spot next to the bed. If after that, they dont have any behavioral issues, you can let sleep in the bed with you. Or not.

4. Bad timing: With dog training or behavior modification, timing is everything. By having bad timing you can cause a dog to be confused and develop behavioral issues.

5. Using the wrong training methods or training equipment can indirectly cause behavioral issues.

Direct and indirect cures for behavioral issues:

1. Practicing no emotional hello’s and goodbye’s: Waiting  3-5 minutes before saying “Hi” to your dog is an effective way to help cure your dog’s behavioral issues. Not saying “hi” may sound mean but after you read my blog “Emotional hellos and goodbyes”, you may think differently. I will be posting that one soon.

2. Obedience training: Training has both a direct and indirect effect on curing a dogs behavioral issues. There’s nothing more to say. Every dog should understand at least 5 basic and 3 advanced commands, on and off leash, around distractions, with or without treats. If done correctly obedience training not only teaches a dog what to do, but it also teaches them and helps them learn what not to do.

3.  Sometimes doing the above won’t stop a dog’s behavior problem as some dogs need a more direct approach. With any behavioral issue the trick is to anticipate the behavior to happen or to re-create/ set-up the dog to repeat the bad behavior, so you can redirect that bad behavior.

4. Timing is everything when trying to change a dog’s behavior. If you know how dogs think and learn and you have good timing, you can reverse behavior problems.

If you would like to add any comment about this blog, just fill out the form below

I will be making videos to teach people how to directly and in-directly stop behavior issues. If you subscribe with just your email you will be notified when I post something new

SHOCK COLLARS

10 Reasons Why Dogs Chew

Chewing is a normal dog behavior, and as you’ll see from this list, chewing is driven by many things. It’s important to understand why your dog chews. You have a huge influence of what a dog chews on and how long the chewing lasts. You can keep destructive chewing to a minimum with proper exercise, training and redirection techniques.

1. Testing: Throughout your dog’s life they may test items by chewing them to see if something good comes of it.

2.  Teething: Has 2 stages, first around 2 months old when their milk (puppy) teeth are coming in and  the second stage and the start of the destructive stage, between 4-6 months as the milk teeth fall out and are replaced by the adult teeth. Puppies must instinctively chew to help their teeth go through this process. It also helps relieve tenderness of the teeth and gums.

3.  Keeps gums & teeth, clean & strong: Humans brush, dogs chew.

4.  Responsibility:  As your puppy goes through the teenage months, approximately 6 months to a year, they must chew because instinct tell them they may need to go hunt for food, protect the pack and themselves.

5.  Exercises jaw muscles: We go to the gym, dogs chew. Around 7-8 months old is the height of the destructive stage for chewing.  Chewing can last for months even years if modification techniques aren’t used.

6.  Anxiety or tension: Chewing helps relieve a dog of tension or anxiety.

7.  Boredom: A lonely or bored dog will be more destructive and chew for  longer periods of time.

8.  Practice: Instinct tells them to practice.

9.  Smells good, tastes good, feels good or they may just be hungry and they want to chew on something.

10.  An obsession: Dogs can develop obsessive chewing disorders .

Please leave a question or comment about this blog

NOISE PHOBIAS

If your dog is showing signs or is fearful of noise caused by fireworks, thunder, lightning and gunfire sounds etc. you must do these three things to help cure your dog of this condition.

First, don’t ever pet or try to comfort a dog when they are showing nervousness or showing fear. There is no such thing as comforting in a dog’s world. You’re not helping your dog when you do this; you’re making the problem worst.

Second, use desensitization/redirection techniques. You do this by exposing them to the negative noise in very small increments, usually when the noise is far away and/or barely audible.  At the same time you are redirecting their thoughts to something pleasant like playing with them, using a ball or toy. The object is to get your dog to concentrate on what you’re doing and not on the thing they’re afraid of.  As your dog shows progress then do the same distraction methods as the sound becomes louder or closer to you. To help you with this, you can find pre-recorded noises with thunder or fireworks on the Internet or just go to YouTube. You can also redirect their focus with obedience and what I call “Tease Play”.

This is the third thing and to me the most important is obedience training. Obedience training is an indirect way to help cure your dog’s phobias or other behavioral issues. Your dog should understand at least 5 basic and 3 advanced commands. Your dog should be able to execute these commands in and around distractions and at least 5 feet away from you.  When done correctly, obedience training help to build a dog’s confidence, builds a better trusting relationship with you and helps them understand exactly what you’re trying to teach them. Good obedience helps accelerate your dog’s learning and it helps cure noise or other phobias.

Top Ten Regrets

Top Ten regrets for dog owners. There are certain behaviors or tricks that you think are cute and you’d like your puppy to do, but once you allow your puppy to do that behaviour, you may soon have regrets.

1. Teaching a puppy to shake paws at an early age. This is a very simple behavior to teach but a tough one to stop.  It should really be discouraged in the beggining, then when the puppy is 10 months or older- you can teach it as a trick.  The rule is if you don’t ask for their paw you shouldn’t take it. If you do, be prepared to get your  leg, arm or even face scratched.

2.  Same thing here, easy to teach- hard to stop once you allow it.   If you have a new puppy,  do not allow them  to jump. When they get older, you can train them what they can jump on and when.

3.  Giving your dog food at the dinner table or giving too many treats. I probably don’t need to explain this one, its common sense. If you give a dog food from your table or anywhere for no reason, they will always expect food from you, especially near the dinner table. Another pet peeve of mine is don’t give food to a dog that is not yours, unless of course the  owner gives permission.

4.  Allowing a dog to sleep with you in bed. Yes, dogs have a highly social bond with us, but the reality is you’re not always going to be available 24/7 as your dog would like.  Letting them sleep in bed in the first year of their life is a false sense of attachment, this can lead to severe separation issues.  They should have their own sleeping spot,  preferably next to your bed.

5.  Allowing or encouraging the dog to bark. Dogs are little warning machines, they love to alert you when something is outside. As your dog goes from puppy  to adult that natural instinct to warn you of intruders increases.  It’s advisable to teach the command “quiet”  from the start suing redirection techniques.  In some cases teaching a dog to bark also teaches them not to bark.  I would consult a professional for this one   Fact: A dog actually thinks they chased the mailman away?

6.  Letting a puppy lick your face excessively.  It might be cute but if you encourage it too much it can become an obsession problem. Your puppy will want to lick every hand and face of every person you know and every person you don’t know.

7.  Letting a puppy play with your old clothing. Your dog can’t distinguish between old and new, your child’s stuffed animal,  kitchen utensils, old shoes or slippers etc. To be clear to your  puppy, they  should only have dog toys to play with.

8.  Just before a walk, getting your dog all excited and saying, “You wanna go for a walk?”  Over time your dog will become too over excited and hard to control. They also can develop other behavioral issues.

9.  Allowing them to jump in the pool without being asked. It is important to teach a dog where the steps are so if they  fall or jump in they know how to get out. You still want to teach some good pool side manners.

10.  Teasing them with a lazer pointer, flashlight or garden hose; read my story Warning About Laser Pointers.  I also don’t recommend using the garden hose as a play toy, this can turn into a obsessive problem and can lead to sprinkler destroying.

Next Page »